Pancakes: Avoiding the "spider batch"
This recent HNQ question on pancakes sticking got me wondering if the good people here might be able to help me solve the biggest culinary mystery of my life.
I've been cooking pancakes for over 50 years now. For a while when the kids were young (and thus didn't sleep late that day), I used to do it every Saturday morning. That's several thousand pancakes. So I got pretty good at it, or at least very well-practiced. I've solved a lot of pancake-related issues through sheer dumb random experimentation.
However, the first batch is still always problematic. Rather than cooking in a nice even pattern, when I flip the first batch, it has always been browned in an odd spiderweb pattern, with what looks almost like bubbles of lighter-browned surface area separated by the browned bits.
My kids (funny how kids in a house develop their own culture) grew to call this first batch "the spider batch", and they all refuse to eat it. This means its always the one I am forced to eat (or throw out). Later batches are never like this, being evenly browned. The "spider batch" also has what I'd call a slightly crusty texture that later batches don't.
My method I use is a Calpalhon griddle straddling 2 electric burners, with the big one set on 5(of 10) and the small one on 7. That keeps the whole griddle relatively evenly heated. I pour my pancakes out to about 3.5" in diameter, as I like that size, and it allows me to make batches of 6 on my griddle.
I've come to lightly spray the griddle with pan-coat beforehand, and use a paper towel to even it out and dab up any excess. If I don't apply the pan-coat, I often have a lot of trouble with the pancakes sticking and tearing up (but still have a spider-batch issue). If I don't dab it up, the spider batch is much worse, and in extreme cases extends to the second batch.
I also allow the griddle to pre-heat for at least 5 minutes, as that seems to help reduce spidering, but it doesn't eliminate it either.
I tried looking this up online, and found this thread on the topic on r/Cooking. The advice there seems to be to do exactly what I'm doing with the oil and the paper towel. Its cool that I hit on the same technique everyone there has, but my problem is it doesn't really fix the issue. It alleviates it, but doesn't fix it. The only fix I've ever found is to throw away the 1st batch. Seems like there ought to be a better fix.
So the question is, what on earth is causing this spidering, and is there anything I can do to stop it? Or is my current MO of "plan to throw the first batch away" as good as I can get?
As far as I know, there is no way to control pan heat such that both the first pancake and the subsequent pancakes turn out good. And the culprit is indeed the heat: for any given batter recipe, the differences in crust color and texture come from the speed at which the contact surface of the pancake to the pan (or to the oil puddle) heats up.
I cannot explain the physics behind it, but it seems that the pan only reaches some kind of equilibrium heating rate after it has fried a pancake. Before that first pancake, it's heating differently.
So you're basically left with the choice between having a bad first pancake and good later ones, or having a good first pancake and bad later ones. The typical choice is to sacrifice the first pancake, so the majority of the batch will be good.
If the problem is that pancakes are wasted, then just serve up the "spider" pancakes first, and refuse to serve the later ones until the first ones are eaten.
Surely a moist topping is more than enough to make them palatable.